Saturday, January 30, 2016

Victorian-inspired Lolita winter jacket: project diary part I

17. 10.
So, today it is drafting the pattern. By myself.
My knees are wobbling.
The only part of the pattern which I have ready-made is the sleeve, which is going to be more or less the same as on the lingerie blouse.
*gulp*
I need a shot of courage, please.

After four hours, I'm giving up. I'm gonna frankenstein it from my sister's patterns.

22. 10.
For invigoration - a mini teaparty, yay!!!XD

Finally the back is cut out, including the interlining, but the electrical machine just had to break when I need it - so my sister said she'll put it together for me on the mechanical one, if I baste it together. Great!

22. 12. 2015
After much arduous work in stolen moments from both sis and me, the jacket is about 80% finished. There is still the elaborate braiding on the front to be done; so far it closes with hooks and eyes, but I think I'll swap it for frog closures as was the original plan. In the back, there is the cord to be put in a decorative corset lacing. Plus I need to line it. So far, so good.
I'm not happy about the sleeves though and will have to fiddle with them a bit... originally I wanted really big silk leg o' mutton sleeves, but somehow it didn't look good - but this small is perhaps a bit too small. So I'm thinking about adding a frill that would cover the puffed part; something like the beautiful Nance O'Neil is wearing here:
 



And maybe I'll replace the silk with another fabric. And maybe I'll put a bit of pretty lace over the frill. Not sure yet. In any case, I need to make a standing collar. I'm wavering whether to add some steel boning or not... we shall see about that.

30. 1. 2016
No progress whatsoever :-) I'm not feeling so well still thanks to the amount of medication I have to take, so I'd like to apologise to everybody to whom I haven't replied yet - if the meds don't kill me, I will reply soon.

What it looks like so far:
The back, which I like very much, because it looks the way I wanted it to so far; it's still missing the decorative corset lacing and a bit of braiding.

The front. As you can see, only the cuffs of the sleeves are braided yet, so it feels kind of bare to me... and those sleeves. Sigh. Sleevils is more like it. Too narrow, too long and the puffed part's too small and a bit plain.
The braiding on the sleeve - my sis drew the pattern based on one we found on the net, I stitched it on with silk thread. *fingers crossed it doesn't snap*
Detail of the front
What are you girls and guys working on? Let me know in the comments!:-)

Wednesday, January 6, 2016

New Bonnet Project: The Vinnetou Bonnet

      I've come to call this bonnet The Vinnetou Bonnet in secret because I keep watching the Vinnetou and Old Shatterhand movies as I work on it (RIP Pierre Brice:-(  ) - but when my sister learnt that, she said it's very cool and so it's its official name now:-D
      I'm trying out the stiff fabric/netting and wire method of making a base frame here and so far I'm very happy about it - opens up so many possibilities! This bonnet is a belated Christmas present for my sis and it is from some 70% her design - I initially meant to make something rather simple like the last velvet bonnet (as this started as a commission that was eventually put on hold and simplicity was the customer's wish), so when my sis brought me her sketch of what she'd like, my knees wobbled a bit. The crown and the tip are going to be complicated... but it's gonna be an interesting challenge.

The journey of one bonnet

The first steps:
Transferring the pattern - I made a mockup for the last bonnet using toilet paper, but as it was frail, I had to trace it onto something sturdier
The brim cut out and the binding pinned on
The crown cut out and the binding sewn on
Mockup - but I actually like it this way and so does sis - so she asked me to make one for her like that for summer, haha:-)
The outer brim covered in black cotton velvet - in real life it's beautifully matte and intense black
      I'm covering the inner side of the brim with ruched velvet at the moment, but it goes slowly because I'm busy and sick - still I hope to start on the crown soon. Pintucks. On velvet. Gulp.

      On another note: I wish you all just the best to the new year 2016 - and cliche as it is, health and luck most of all.

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